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Backabush Nouveau Belize Cuisine |
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Written by Andrew Steinhauer
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Tuesday, 09 October 2007 |
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Nestled in
the Mayflower Bocawina National Park,
Stann Creek District is a sophisticatedly rustic eco-friendly resort, Mama Noots,
run by repatriated Belizean Nan Ramirez and husband Kevin Denny. The resort takes
its eco-attitude seriously and just doesn’t use the “eco” label” due to its
chic fashionableness. They walk the walk, besides talk the talk. Noots uses
wind, water and sun for its entire energy sources. They have an 80 foot windmill,
a mini hydro-electric system and solar collectors.
View of Mama Noots cabin
Noots has
an enviable, to-die-for location; the resort is situated only a few minutes
hike from the spectacular Three Sisters Falls,
Antelope Falls and three unexcavated Mayan sites:
Maintzunun, Tau Witz and Mayflower. That said the focus of this mini-critique
is Noots outrageously innovative cooking. Maybe culinary wizardry runs in the
family for Nan and her sister Tey’s mom worked
in the States for decades as a chef to the stars. Mom concocted gastronomic
delights when working in the kitchen of movie stars like Frank Sinatra, Raymond
Massey, and media mogul William Hearst. Whatever the roots of Nan
and Tey’s Noots cooking; the end result is a tasty fusion of Creole, Mestizo,
Mayan and Garifuna done in novel gourmet style. It’s the “Galloping Gourmet”
gone Belizean. Also Nan grows all her veggies,
herbs, spices and fruits in her gardens which give the dishes a few extra pluses
on both the taste bud and nutrition meters.
The chef sisters create dishes similar to the way a jazz
musician improvises tunes. Both start out with something familiar and then embellish,
twist-n-turn and re-mix it into something new and intriguingly spicy. Nan and Tey brew up a wicked pot of cowfoot soup and of
special note for this critic, they manage to take the sliminess out of okra,
thus giving cowfoot soup an entirely different, more pleasant texture. They
also pull an ingenious switcheroo on the traditional tamale called “tamalitos
de chaya” served with pumpkin seed dressing. The duo wrap the tamale in chaya
leaves instead of banana leaves so the whole thing is edible with the added
taste of Mayan “tree spinach” just for innovation’s sake.
Mama Noots
has had a very low profile in its four years in existence. With the inspired
cooking found at this backabush resort, that low profile won’t be low for long.
Mama Noots can be contacted at 501-606-4353. Bon Appetit and belly full.
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Last Updated ( Tuesday, 09 October 2007 )
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